📰​ Le Fil I Marc Durie (PGE00) - “Balancing creativity, profitability and sustainability”

Lire l'article original en français dans le magazine Le Fil #7

Marc Durie (PGE00), President of J.M. Weston

Balancing creativity, profitability and sustainability

After an international career with some of the biggest names in luxury, taking him from Hong Kong to New York, Marc Durie took the helm of a French icon : the renowned shoemaker J.M. Weston. Rooted in a rich heritage of craftsmanship, the brand remains true to its Limoges origins while continually reinventing itself to reflect the times without compromising its identity. Where modernity meets tradition…

Career path

1999 – Louis Vuitton, Footwear Product Manager, Paris

2000 – emlyon graduate

2008 – Yves Saint Laurent, President Asia-Pacific, Hong Kong

2011 – Louis Vuitton, Vice President Merchandising Asia-Pacific, Hong Kong

2013 – J. Mendel, President, New York

2016 – Christian Louboutin, Vice President Men’s Shoes and CRM, Paris

2021 – J.M. Weston, President

Your career has unfolded in the world of luxury, from your early days at Louis Vuitton to leading J.M. Weston. What first drew you to this field and what has kept you there ?

I’ve always been drawn to managing creativity, that delicate balance between creative energy and business performance. With that in mind, during my time at emlyon, I chose to complete my second-year work-study placement at the Lyon Opera. The following year, I wanted to explore the world of luxury, so I joined the team launching ready-to-wear footwear at Louis Vuitton. Our office was next to the studio of Marc Jacobs, who was the artistic director at the time. It was an incredible and highly rewarding experience, one that ultimately led to me being hired.

What have been the key milestones in your career ?

Starting out at one of the sector’s leading companies is incredibly formative for a young graduate. At Louis Vuitton, I learned the fundamentals of luxury before moving, four years later, to Yves Saint Laurent, where I was exposed to Anglo-Saxon business practices and the dynamics of major US department stores alongside Tom Ford’s team. I initially oversaw footwear marketing, then operational marketing in Paris, before going on to lead the Asia-Pacific region, based in Hong Kong, at a time when the brand was separating from Gucci. Our mission was to recruit teams and buy back the franchise in China in order to operate directly.

From that point on, my former managers started reaching out to me again, which opened the door to the next stages of my career. That’s why I always say it’s important to choose your bosses carefully… and to get along with them! [Laughs] So I then returned to Louis Vuitton for a time to oversee merchandising in Asia-Pacific, before seizing the rare opportunity to work in New York at J. Mendel, a house known for its furs and eveningwear – my first experience running a business. After three and a half years, the company was sold to a competitor, as planned, and I returned to Paris to head the men’s footwear division at Christian Louboutin, before joining J.M. Weston in 2021.

Can you take us back through the history of J.M. Weston and tell us why it is such an iconic brand ?

It’s a remarkable house that was founded in 1891 in Limoges. What attracted me most was its spirit of innovation, which has been there from the very beginning. In 1904, Eugène Blanchard, the founder’s son, traveled to Weston, Massachusetts, to learn a shoe construction technique that he later brought back to France. In 1922, he partnered with a Parisian dandy to move the brand upmarket. They chose the name Weston as a tribute to that 1904 journey and because Anglo-Saxon products were seen at the time as the height of elegance and refinement.

They soon opened their first boutique in Paris on Boulevard de Courcelles, followed by a second on the Champs-Élysées in 1932. Over the decades, Weston developed a number of iconic designs, most notably the emblematic 180 loafer, which recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. When it was introduced in 1946, it was a forward-thinking design, marketed as a “slipper loafer,” with comfort already at its core. It’s an extremely practical shoe, with no laces, easy to slip on and off, and suitable for wear from morning to night, whatever the occasion.

In a context of deindustrialization, J.M. Weston has kept most of its production in France. Why make that choice and how do you remain competitive ?

85% of our production is in France, a deliberate decision by our shareholder EPI, which has owned the company since 1974 and has chosen to anchor our craftsmanship in Limoges and the surrounding region. It’s a choice that goes against the grain. Shoemaking is a highly manual craft – the 180 loafer, for instance, takes its name from the 180 steps involved in its making – and much of the industry moved production offshore in the 1980s to reduce labor costs. To remain profitable, Weston stands by its premium pricing, which is consistent with the quality of its products.

Eighty years old and still a bestseller. The 180 loafer, named for the 180 handcrafted steps required to make it, accounts for three quarters of Weston’s revenue on its own.

In 2026, how do you preserve and renew the spirit of a century-old house founded on exceptional craftsmanship ?

The key is to stay true to the brand’s DNA, which actually aligns closely with post-Covid expectations: French manufacturing, repairability, durability and short supply chains.  In fact, Weston has its own repair workshop, handling 10,000 pairs a year. Our tannery, which produces the leather for our soles, is located just 30 km from Limoges and most of our products are made using French leather. We also make the most of every resource: reinforcements are crafted from offcuts recovered during production, ensuring nothing goes to waste.

At the same time, the brand has never stopped innovating. Comfort today is not what it was in the 1940s, so we continuously adapt to changing lifestyles. With the rise of remote working, people slip shoes on and off far more often, which led us to introduce laceless trainers and sneakers. We also take into account changes in foot shape – feet are getting wider, so offering multiple widths has become essential.

The luxury sector suffered a downturn in 2025, and 2026 remains uncertain. How is the brand holding up ?

We’re fortunate to be growing in what is a challenging market. We benefit from an extremely loyal customer base, while attracting younger clients who connect with our sustainability-driven DNA. We’ve also introduced highly artisanal lines for true connoisseurs, which are helping to support our growth. And although originally a menswear brand, Weston is now expanding its women’s segment too.

What initiatives are you pursuing in terms of sustainability ?

As I mentioned earlier, sustainability has always been part of Weston’s identity, through repairability and short supply chains. Our more recent initiatives include “Weston Vintage,” launched in 2019, through which we buy back, restore and resell pre-owned shoes. For the past year and a half, we’ve also been focusing heavily on upcycling, with the launch of the “180 Denim” program. Jeans are sourced from vintage shops or Emmaüs charity shops and transformed into shoes. As an experiment, we invited 25 friends of the house to bring in a piece of clothing they loved but no longer wore, to give it a second life as a pair of loafers. The only limitation is material: only durable fabrics, such as denim, can undergo this kind of transformation.

What are the brand’s main areas of growth and future development ?

For our longstanding male clientele, we are developing a full range of footwear for today’s man, for every moment of life and every occasion: the 180 loafer, sandals, sneakers, mules, slippers and more. We are also extending our iconic styles to female customers. In addition, we have a small leather goods workshop in Limoges producing accessories including bags, wallets, belts and gloves. Finally, we are focusing heavily on growing the brand internationally.

Indeed, what are your main export markets today and which are you looking to grow ?

Historically, Weston has been strongly established in three regions. France, the brand’s home market, accounts for 50% of our customers and Japan, which has a deep appreciation for French craftsmanship, represents 20%. Weston enjoys truly iconic status there – for many young Japanese professionals, buying their first pair of Weston shoes is considered a rite of passage into working life. South-west Africa is our third major market. The brand became known there during General de Gaulle’s visit to Brazzaville in 1944, when he delivered his famous speech wearing Weston shoes. Our French-speaking African clientele continued to grow throughout the 1950s and the brand also became iconic there. While we are not planning to open stores in Africa for now, we do want to expand our customer base in major urban centers. This year, for example, we are organizing a collection presentation in Kinshasa, Congo, which is a first for the brand in Africa.

We are also beginning to expand through multibrand retail in Asia and are starting to look more closely at the Chinese market. In the United States, we have a small presence, but it remains difficult and expensive to scale there, particularly in today’s uncertain environment.

Which Weston shoes are your personal favorites to wear every day ?

Unsurprisingly, the 180 loafer. I love how easy it is to wear – having spent eight years in Asia, I’m used to taking my shoes off when I get home. I also appreciate the craftsmanship, the beauty of the leather and the patina it develops over time. I’m also very fond of the Walker, a city shoe with the comfort of a sneaker. Perfect when you’re constantly on the move… like me, as someone who walks everywhere.

What memories do you have of your time at emlyon ?

Very positive ones! I appreciated the school’s international outlook and it was there that I learned how important it is to build a strong network for your future career. I was also especially grateful for the flexibility emlyon showed in helping me launch my professional life. The internship that proved decisive for me at Louis Vuitton took place at the start of my third year. When it ended, the company immediately offered me a full-time position – take it or leave it. But I still had six months of study left before graduating! The emlyon faculty staff understood my situation and agreed to group all my classes at the beginning of the week, from Monday through Wednesday lunchtime, so that I could catch the train and work part-time at Louis Vuitton from Wednesday afternoon to Friday evening. That’s how I got both my degree and my first job. It’s an experience that illustrates the close ties between emlyon and the business world.

What ties do you still have with the school ?

Some of my closest friends in Paris, whose careers have taken very different paths from mine, are fellow alumni. The school really creates lasting connections. Weston currently employs another emlyon alumna as well: Catherine Parent du Châtelet (PGE91), CFO of the EPI Group. And our former head of social media, Yannick Bittencourt (EMMG23), whom I hired, had also completed a master’s degree at emlyon. I attended his graduation ceremony, which felt like a real trip down memory lane for me because it took place on the historic Écully campus, before the move to Gerland. It was such a lovely setting –   like the countryside in the middle of the city!

The luxury sector both attracts and intimidates graduates. What advice would you give students hoping to build a career in the industry ?

Luxury attracts a huge number of applicants, so competition is intense. To stand out, it’s important for them to show genuine passion for the sector through their cover letters, networking and conversations with people in the industry. Beyond motivation, they also need to demonstrate a strong work ethic. But it’s absolutely worth it. I would strongly encourage graduates to consider this field: throughout my career, I’ve had the chance to meet truly fascinating people.

Where others have offshored, Weston has chosen Limoges. 85% of its production remains in France, a commitment that preserves its craftsmanship and underpins its premium pricing.